Current issue | Letters Online | What's on | Webwatch | About us | Previous issues | Contact us | Subscribe/renew | Index | Terms & conditions | Your basket

Embroidery

Gallery

Freddie Robins' subversive sweaters

compiled by Polly Leonard

If art is supposed to challenge our perceptions and make us look at the world in a different way, then Freddie Robins succeeds on both counts. Her career began 20 years ago when she won the Womancraft magazine knitting competition, with a knitted interpretation of a tuxedo in mohair. This set the tone for the subversive sweaters she is known for today.

After graduating from the Royal College of Art she worked in the fashion industry for a while, but found making functional objects frustrating. Her finely crafted, reassuring, domestic sweaters have instant appeal, but look more closely and they have a sinister twist. The uneasy juxtapositioning of the macabre and the cosy is unsettling yet it makes the difficult subject matter she tackles more palatable.

Freddie's knitted and embroidered 'Knitted Homes of Crime' are reminiscent of tea-cosies, but these houses are portraits of homes associated with high-profile crimes committed by women. When women perpetrate murder it is perceived as more heinous, for women are defined as the nurturers in society. Freddie designed the complex patterns using her computer. Jean Arkell then knitted them before Freddie embroidered the details and made them up.

Knitted Homes of Crime. Installation. 2002 Knitted Homes of Crime: Ethel. 2002. Hand-knitted wool, quilted lining fabric. Hand-knitted by Jean Arkell. 26 x18 x 16 cm Tree Cosies. 1997. Installation for the Garden Party, Feering, Essex. Machine and hand knitted, yarn buttons. Hand-knitted by Molly Robin Comfort Creature. 1998. Wool, felt, plastic.
33 x 12 x 9 cm
Click the images to see a bigger version

This work is challenging and uncompromising. Her distorted body pieces - sweaters with elongated limbs - communicate a fascination with the monstrous. In a recent exhibition which focused on disability - a subject most people shy away from - she made a short-sleeved sweater for Mat Fraser who is affected by the drug thalidomide. The sweater is emblazoned with the slogan: 'Short armed and dangerous'. It celebrates difference by drawing attention to it.

The content of Freddie's work is surreal in that her utilitarian objects function poetically rather than rationally. She approaches serious subject matter with humour, and plays with the idea of making the repellent seductive.

The exhibition will tour nationally. For a schedule contact: +44 (0)1206 577067, info@1stsite.co.uk, www.firstsite-online.org.uk

A 64-page colour catalogue is available, with essays by Dawn Ades, Claire Doherty and Linda Theophilus, price £10.

This article is from Embroidery, Volume 54 No.2, © Polly Leonard
Portrait by Ed Ironside/Crafts Council; other images Douglas Atfield


Current issue | Letters Online | What's on | Webwatch | About us | Previous issues | Contact us | Subscribe/renew | Index | Terms & conditions | Your basket
Embroiderers' Guild | Stitch with the Embroiderers' Guild | Young Embroiderers
weavingshed web design webmaster@weavingshed.com