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The World of Embroidery

Samplers by Design

Developing stitches through play (Second of a series of three)

Effie Mitrofanis

Stitch palettes or swatches - creating a vocabulary of colour and stitch

Swatches - Most embroiderers love fabric and paint swatches. The concept of stitch palettes or swatches as another form of sampler suggests an ideal format for creating a palette or swatch that combines stitches with colour.

The design for the swatches needs to be a fairly simple division of space as the main purpose of the sampler is to show colour and stitch. Space divisions may be extracted from a Design Resource. One type of Design Resource is to draw or trace outlines of your favourite flowers, landscape or other shapes from your sketchbook, magazines or cuttings.

Mark the outlines boldly with black felt pen. The Design Resource may then be enlarged or reduced on the photocopier to give a range of different sizes from which to uplift space divisions through a window made of card or board. I chose a regular shape 75 x 48 mm (3 x 2 in.) with rounded corners. Other shapes are squares, triangles, circles, diamonds, ovals, etc.

Place the window over different parts of the design and select sections from the design source. Trace them onto tracing paper and transfer them to fabric.

Choose a few of your favourite stitches to work with, select a palette of different types of threads and start stitching.

Remember the advice from the first sampler - it's for fun, it doesn't matter how the back looks, don't be precious, don't unpick, relax and enjoy.

Stitch palettes

Stitch palettes showing positive and negative shapes.

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Palettes of pattern, stitch and colour - Many of us are aware that embroidery has a mind of its own and, while design and planning is a necessary pre-requisite, once embroidery is applied to the surface, it interacts firstly with the fabric and then with other stitch applications. Constant re-assessment is needed to determine the next stitch and the next colour, even though a pre-plan has already been mapped out. I decided to extract patterns from the Design Resource and combine stitch and colour variations to test them prior to commencing the work. I was so pleased with the result that the palette became part of the finished work. I must confess that sometimes a palette can't be finished until after the embroidery is complete. Embroiderers must be flexible and prepared for any eventuality.


Effie Mitrofanis is a professional embroiderer who lives in Australia. She has a passionate interest in the art, pattern and texture of embroidery, its history, its makers and techniques. Effie has exhibited in Japan and France and has given workshops throughout Australia and New Zealand. She has written four books.

This article is from The World of Embroidery, Volume 49 No.5, © Effie Mitrofanis.

highlights from September 1998 issue


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